DIONYS RC Sailboat

After some hesitation, I decided to buy the kit. However, I modified the model until it met my expectations. I altered and simplified the fuselage and vertical stabilizer, and slightly enlarged the wings. This resulted in the following specifications:

Wingspan 254 cm
, fuselage length 123 cm

Flight weight: approx. 1,300–1,500 g, depending on the design and control system. If you want to make the most of the wood you’ve purchased, you can extend each wing section by one rib—that is, by about 19 cm—without having to enlarge the horizontal stabilizer, since it’s already slightly oversized.

Fuselage: Since the fuselage is available as a pre-built part, the work is essentially limited to the internal components and the vertical stabilizer. First, we pour 100 g of lead shot into the nose of the fuselage using Araldit. Then we measure out the space needed to accommodate the battery and receiver and construct the servo mount as a longitudinal strut, as is common with plastic fuselages. Next, we build the

vertical stabilizer up to and including the primer coat and the mounted rudder horn. We glue this into the fuselage cutout and secure it with masking tape at the base of the vertical stabilizer. This ensures proper installation. Then we align the control linkage (5 x 5 mm balsa).

For the elevator, drill a hole of approximately 10 mm at the rear of the fuselage and file it out as needed so that the linkage does not interfere anywhere. Two strips of Tesamoll are glued between the horizontal stabilizer and the fuselage. The burr and the slight taper of the stabilizer mounting surface—which is essential for fuselage construction—are therefore not filed away. (Except for any interfering burrs.)

Only once the linkages fit properly do we glue on the wing supports (4+5). These also serve to reinforce the fuselage. At the same time, we also glue in the dowels for attaching the wings.

The canopy can be cut out with a jigsaw if it interferes with the linkage or the servos. The method of attaching the canopy is left to the discretion of each builder of this model.

All glue joints with the fuselage must be made with Araldit.

Wings: First, glue the brass tubes (50) into the main spar (36) using Araldit and attach the plywood reinforcements (47+48). After cutting the end strips and the main spars, glue the lower skin to the main spar. Then insert the ribs, but glue them only to the main spar and simultaneously to the end strip. (Do not glue them to the planking.) We apply the necessary bevel to the nose strip (using a plane or sandpaper), glue it to the ribs, and allow the glue joints to dry thoroughly. Only then do we apply glue between the ribs and the lower planking, as well as to the now-beveled side of the nose strip. We then tack the lower planking to the nose strip using masking tape or other adhesive tape. Next, we plane the top of the leading edge at an angle so that it is flush with the ribs, and then attach the upper planking. We also secure this with adhesive tape around the leading edge, as well as to the main spar and the lower planking. After tacking the upper planking in place, the wing halves are weighted down on a flat surface at the trailing edge and at the level of the main spar so that any warping can self-correct before the glue dries. This is an advantage of this construction method compared to the usual pin-fastening technique. It eliminates the various holes caused by pin pricks. The outer wings are built in the same way, though it is not necessary to install a strut. When assembling the two wing halves, the filler pieces—which are not numbered on the plan—are cut from leftover 5-mm balsa wood, fitted, and glued in place.

Horizontal Stabilizer: For the horizontal stabilizer, we make sure to use lightweight wood for all parts. The elevator is cut from 8 mm balsa and sanded into the desired shape.

Covering: When covering with paper or silk, the wood should first be coated once with a hard primer and then lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper.
Monokote adheres better to unvarnished wood.

Test Flight: If the model is well-balanced, the test flight should go smoothly. Nevertheless, we should choose a calm day. If your model turns in a bit too much against the wind, I recommend shimming the front of the horizontal stabilizer by about 1 mm before adding more lead.

I hope you’re just as enthusiastic about this model as my friends and I are.